I work with the 7 laws my watches must commit.
1. from Switzerland.
2. a proper second hand.
3. roots from under 20 century. 1600 to 1899.
4. case size must be from 39mm and bigger.
5. All mechanical with one exception for the quartz powered Longines Conquest. Hand wound no problem.
6. No chronograph.
7. Transparent case back.
Some watch brands are from the 20th century, but when a connection from 1600 - 1899 is there, the watch is ok.
Montblanc, Cartier, Bulgari, are ok.
Out are all modern independents.
Hot, Vacheron Constantin.
Girard Perregaux.
Audemars Piguet.
Longines.
Breguet.
Blancpain.
IWC.
And even Patek Phillipe belongs to my lucky list.
And many more who commit my 7 watch laws.